Snow leopards are marvels of evolution, thriving in some of the most extreme conditions on our planet. Their luxurious coats, a blend of white and gray dappled with prominent black rosettes, serve as the perfect camouflage against the rocky, steep terrains of Asia’s high mountains. The snow leopard, Panthera uncia, esteemed for its exquisite fur and secretive nature, roams the rugged terrains of Central Asia. Among the big cats, they are the most diminutive, boasting tails almost as long as their bodies. Their fur, a dense, smoky gray with a pattern of dark gray rosettes and spots, merges seamlessly with the mountainous landscapes, rendering them nearly invisible.
India, with a recent count of 718 snow leopards spread across four states and two union territories, has emerged as a prime location for spotting these majestic creatures. Particularly, the Union Territory of Ladakh and the State of Himachal Pradesh have become hotspots for sighting these magnificent felines.
Our recent endeavors led groups and individuals on snow leopard expeditions in Ladakh, where the tours not only proceeded without a hitch but also provided participants with memorable encounters with this elusive mountain big cat.
Recently, I had the extraordinary opportunity to lead a group on a snow leopard expedition in Ladakh. This journey was not just a tour; it was an immersive experience into the realm of one of the most elusive big cats in the world. The snow leopard, an emblem of the wild and untamed mountains of Central Asia, is a creature of remarkable beauty and stealth. Our expedition was aimed at not only spotting these magnificent animals but also understanding their habitat, behavior, and the conservation efforts to protect them.
The rugged terrain of Ladakh, with its breathtaking landscapes, proved to be the perfect backdrop for our adventure. The anticipation of catching a glimpse of the snow leopard in its natural habitat was palpable among the group members from day one. As we trekked through the steep, Rocky Mountains, every moment was filled with the possibility of encountering this elusive cat. Our guides, knowledgeable and passionate about wildlife conservation, enriched our experience with insights into the snow leopard’s life and the ecological balance of the region.
I am writing here about our day-to-day experience on this expedition.
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Day 1: Arrival in Delhi, India
The snow leopard expedition group has arrived in India, a day ahead of the scheduled start. Upon their arrival, they were greeted by the staff of Nature Safari at the airport. Following their arrival, some members of the group took the opportunity to visit Sultanpur National Park for birdwatching, where they observed a variety of migratory birds, particularly waterfowl. Afterwards, they enjoyed some leisure time at their hotel located near the airport.
Day 2: Fly to Leh
Our journey to Leh, Ladakh, was meticulously planned with our flight scheduled for 9 AM, necessitating an early morning departure to ensure we arrived in time. Upon reaching Terminal 2 of the airport, we breezed through check-in, much to our relief, as the crowds were surprisingly sparse. The anticipation built as we approached the boarding gate, only to be met with a digital display that announced the temperature at our destination: a staggering -20°C, a figure that danced precariously on the edge of excitement and shock.
Merely minutes into our flight, the breathtaking vistas of the Trans Himalayan landscape unfolded beneath us, compelling us to capture its beauty from a bird’s-eye view. However, our excitement was slightly tempered upon landing, as we were promptly informed that photography was forbidden at the military airport. Greeted warmly by our local team, we embarked on a half-hour journey to our hotel, where a two-night stay awaited us—a necessary measure to acclimate to Leh’s dauntingly low oxygen levels.
The hotel staff’s advice was stern yet caring: rest completely on the first day, hydrate generously, avoid naps to ensure a good night’s sleep, and refrain from showering. While some directives were clear, others puzzled us. Despite the warnings, the day’s early start and the exhaustion it wrought overpowered me, and I succumbed to sleep for an hour. This lapse proved to be a mistake, as the hotel manager had cautioned, leading to a restless night where sleep proved elusive.
Day 3: The Monastery Visit
At breakfast, the conversation among our group revolved around our collective struggle with sleep. However, the thrill of exploring a new destination and the vibrant energy of Leh seemed to mitigate our fatigue. Our excitement was palpable, undiminished by the previous night’s restlessness. Our guide, Mr. Zigmet, a knowledgeable naturalist, outlined the day’s adventure: a post-lunch visit to the Thiksey Monastery, the largest in Ladakh, followed by a birdwatching excursion along the banks of the Indus River with hopes of spotting the elusive Ibisbill.
Energized by the day’s plan, we set off after lunch. The Thiksey Monastery, standing majestically 19 kilometers from Leh on a hill, offered breathtaking views of the Indus Valley and the Stok Range. Its rich collection of Ladakhi art and the expansive architecture left us in awe. Founded in 1433 AD by Spon Palden Sherab alongside his master, Jangsem Sherab Zangpo—one of Lord Tsongkhapa’s six contemporary disciples—the monastery stands as a testament to Tsongkhapa’s prophecy. He foresaw his teachings flourishing along the right side of the Indus River, a vision realized through Thiksey and other Gelugpa monasteries like Spituk and Likir, fulfilling the prophecy with remarkable precision. The initial temple, Lhakhang Serpo (Yellow Temple), preceded the grandeur of what Thiksey Monastery would become.
The latter part of our day was dedicated to birdwatching along the serene Indus River. After patient searching, our efforts were rewarded with the sighting of an Ibisbill—a first for many in our group, marking a significant moment in our birdwatching endeavors. The day concluded with a return to the hotel, where dinner was followed by a hopeful anticipation of a more restful night’s sleep.
Day 4: The Expedition Started
This morning, I awoke to a scene straight from a fairy tale—a winter wonderland unfurled before my eyes. Overnight, a lavish blanket of snow had utterly transformed the landscape, perfectly setting the stage for today’s voyage to Ulley, nestled at an awe-inspiring altitude of 4000 meters. Following a sumptuous breakfast, we were all abuzz with excitement, setting out on our snow leopard expedition. In stark contrast to the restless sleep of two nights ago, we had all enjoyed a night of deep, rejuvenating rest, and our spirits were high in anticipation of the days ahead.
The snowfall that had blanketed Ladakh and other Himalayan mountainous regions necessitated not just personal readiness but also a thorough preparation of our vehicles to tackle the snow-slicked roads. Our preparations were nothing short of meticulous; the tires of our vehicles were outfitted with chains, a clear signal of the challenging conditions we were poised to confront. As we set off, the familiar landscapes along NH 1 transformed before our eyes into a stunning tableau of nature’s artistry, with hills and roads swathed in unblemished snow.
Our adventure took an enchanting turn upon reaching the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus Rivers. The sight was sheer magic—a fusion of natural splendor and tranquility that left us utterly spellbound. We took some shots of this place by drone and also spotted the Golden eagle, one of the major birds of prey of Trans Himalaya. This journey proved to be as much about the destinations as it was about these awe-inspiring moments along the way. Each turn revealed a new panorama, each moment unfurled a new tale.
Upon reaching our lodge nestled in the high mountains, we were taken aback by the stunning beauty that surrounded us. As we sipped our welcome tea, a Chukar Partridge appeared just outside the window, presenting a delightful surprise. Members of our group with a keen interest in birds became incredibly excited, and we quickly snapped some photos of this unexpected visitor. No sooner had we done so than a Robin Accentor also joined the scene at the same perching spot. For almost all of us, the Chukar was a lifer—a bird species we were seeing in the wild for the first time.
After the excitement of these sightings, we were served lunch, and then advised to rest in our rooms for the afternoon, as there had been no reports of Snow Leopard sightings today. The unexpected encounters with these birds added a layer of excitement to our journey, reminding us that every moment in these mountains can hold a new discovery.
Our quest for the elusive snow leopard presses on, but on this third day, it was all about embracing the journey and the majestic landscapes that graced our path.
Spotlight on India’s Common Leopards
Day 5: First Sighting
On the morning of day 4, little did we know that it would turn out to be a day that would forever alter our lives. Our naturalist, Mr. Morup, briefed us over an early breakfast at 8:30 am that the day’s agenda was dedicated to tracking the elusive snow leopard. Even before breakfast, there was a buzz of activity as they scanned the surrounding landscape for any signs of wildlife.
Eager and filled with anticipation, we ventured out early to check on their findings. To our delight, they had spotted a herd of Asiatic Ibex, majestic animals native to the world’s three main mountain ranges: the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush, and the Karakoram. Adapted to the rugged terrain and high altitudes, these creatures moved with ease across the steep hillsides, showcasing the males’ imposing presence and the grace of several females.
By 10 am, with no updates from the spotters, we set out in search of the snow leopard. The spotters, equipped with their spotting scopes, had positioned themselves at various vantage points early in the morning, ready to communicate any sightings of the snow leopard. As we journeyed through the landscape, we encountered another mountain ungulate, the Ladakh Urial, a subspecies of Urial found in the trans-Himalayan region of Ladakh, known to be the ancestor of the first domesticated sheep.
Our search for the snow leopard resumed with heightened anticipation. At one of our stops, high in the mountains, the distant barking of dogs caught our attention. The spotters speculated that the continuous barking could indicate the presence of a snow leopard nearby. Driven by this clue, we moved closer to the source of the barking. After a challenging climb with our spotters, we were rewarded with the sight of two snow leopard cubs perched on a rocky outcrop about three hundred meters away. The excitement was palpable, though tinged with concern for the cubs’ safety from the dogs, as the mother was nowhere in sight. However, we soon realized the cubs were in a safe location, out of the dogs’ reach. According to Mr. Morup, the cubs were about 8 months old.
Our joy knew no bounds, and as we celebrated our successful expedition, the barking shifted to the other side of the mountain. There, we caught sight of the mother with a Urial kill—a stroke of incredible luck. Overwhelmed with happiness, we spent the entire afternoon in their company. Our naturalist arranged for our lunch to be delivered to our location, allowing us to dine while keeping the snow leopard family in view, though only visible through our spotting scopes or binoculars. As evening approached, we reluctantly left the area to allow the mother to safely return to her cubs, aided by a villager who scared away the dogs.
Back at the lodge that evening, the air was electric with excitement as we shared stories of our encounter. After a fulfilling dinner, we retired to our rooms, hearts and minds filled with the day’s unforgettable experiences.
Day 6: A Wonderful Day
Today’s quest mirrored yesterday’s: a dedicated search for the Snow Leopards after breakfast, with trackers and spotters already advancing into the mountains to locate the elusive felines. Mr. Morup informed us that, lacking new leads, we might revisit the site where we encountered a mother and her cubs the day before. As we set off, news reached us that the same family was spotted near yesterday’s location. En route, a pair of wild yaks graced us on a frozen river, adding to the day’s anticipation.
We drove to a vantage point, from where a hike led us closer to the leopards’ location. Thankfully, the area was devoid of dogs that might have disturbed the serene setting. There, we were rewarded with another day in the presence of the snow leopard family, observing the cubs at play. One cub amusingly toyed with a piece of wood, treating it as if it were a bone, under the watchful eye of their mother. This intimate glimpse into their behavior was fascinating.
In this secluded spot, we also noticed a wooly hare, albeit far from the snow leopards, adding another layer to the day’s wildlife sightings. The day unfolded with lunch amidst the mountains, and as the sun began to set, we departed, leaving the snow leopards in their nocturnal solitude. This experience, rich with wildlife observations and the majestic backdrop of Ladakh’s landscape, offered us a profound connection to the natural world, one that will undoubtedly linger in our memories
Day 7: The Mask dance
This morning greeted me with the delightful sight of Chukar Partridges and Eurasian Magpies foraging outside my room. Capturing their moments in photos was an invigorating start to the day. Our itinerary today diverged from the usual; a vibrant festival at the Likir Monastery down the hill promised a spectacle of monks performing masked dances. The allure of cultural immersion led many in our group to opt for this experience over the pursuit of the Snow Leopard with Mr. Morup. Interestingly, a hint about the snow leopard’s whereabouts, conveniently located en route to the monastery, presented a dual opportunity for exploration.
We split into two factions: one set off for the monastery, and I joined this contingent, while the others stayed behind, hoping for a glimpse of the elusive Snow Leopard. The monastery, brimming with attendees, pulsated with anticipation. Despite the crowd, we found a vantage point offering a clear view of the mesmerizing dance performances. The energy and vibrancy of the two shows we witnessed were nothing short of captivating.
Reuniting with the other team post-performance, we shared a meal, and although they reported no Snow Leopard sightings, their enthusiasm over spotting four Lammergeiers, or Bearded Vultures, was palpable. We indulged in a bit more birdwatching in the area before heading back to our lodge, rounding off a day rich in avian diversity and cultural spectacle.
As dinner came to a close, we retired for the night, each of us harboring hopes for what the next day might unveil. The promise of new discoveries, whether in the form of wildlife or cultural treasures, added a layer of excitement to the anticipation of the days ahead.
Day 8: An Addition to Checklist
Today marked a departure from our usual terrain, as we ventured 1000 meters below our lodging into a landscape where snow-capped peaks were a rarity. Despite an extensive search of the area, our initial efforts bore no fruit, prompting us to explore further. This perseverance was rewarded when we encountered a herd of Ladakh Urial, a sight not too distant for our lenses. After capturing their grace in photographs, we paused for a well-deserved lunch amidst apricot trees by a serene stream, a setting as picturesque as it was tranquil.
With our spirits and bodies nourished, we resumed our journey back to the lodge, eyes peeled for any signs of wildlife. An intriguing discovery came in the form of a snow leopard’s pugmark on the main road, though it seemed to be a day old. A brief discussion with a spotter, who had been vigilantly stationed there since morning, concluded with the consensus that the elusive cat had moved on.
Upon our return to the lodge, the day’s patience and persistence were finally rewarded. Through our spotting scope, we observed a red fox in close proximity to a golden eagle, the latter feasting on a woolly hare. The fox, in its patient vigil, seemed to await its turn. Eager for a closer look, we approached for a better shot, capturing the moment that beautifully encapsulated the cycle of life in the wild.
The day concluded with a quiet dinner, after which we retired to our rooms, the sighting of the red fox adding a novel entry to our list of mammalian encounters. As sleep took us, it was with a sense of fulfillment from the day’s adventures and an eager anticipation for what the morrow might hold.
A Guide to Tracking Snow Leopards in India
Day 9: A beautiful landscape
The day dawned with the familiar buzz of excitement for the unknown, a hallmark of our adventurous spirits. After breakfast, with no fresh leads on the elusive snow leopard, we opted to revisit the site of our previous day’s wild yak encounter, a frozen river known on occasion to be a path trodden by snow leopards. The descent to the river was the beginning of a journey toward the valley, anticipation guiding our steps.
Upon arrival, the valley unfurled as a breathtaking canvas of nature. Here, amidst the serene landscape, we were greeted by the sight of Ibex, their majestic forms a testament to the wild’s enduring grace. The air was alive with the calls of Red-billed Choughs and Brown Accentors, adding a melodic backdrop to the visual splendor of our surroundings. Time seemed to stand still as we immersed ourselves in the beauty of the moment, the experience only enhanced by a lunch shared in the midst of such untouched wilderness.
The return trek proved to be both exhilarating and exhausting, as we navigated the precarious edges of the frozen river, often opting for the relative safety of the sidelines or threading through vegetation. The physical toll of the journey was palpable by the time we returned to the lodge, a testament to the day’s adventures.
Yet, the weariness was tinged with a bittersweet realization that this was our final night at the lodge. In a celebration of the memories forged and the bonds strengthened over shared experiences, we marked the occasion with a cake cutting, a symbolic gesture of our collective journey. The evening culminated in a dinner that felt more like a gathering of friends than mere travelers, recounting tales and savoring the last moments of our time together.
As we retired to our rooms, the day’s fatigue was a small price for the wealth of experiences garnered. Sleep came easily, filled with dreams of the wild and a quiet hope for what adventures the future might hold.
Day 10: Last Day last Show
On our departure day, anticipation lingered in the air, mingled with the hope of a final snow leopard sighting. After breakfast, with departure set for 10:30 AM, both spotters and some eager clients kept a vigilant watch around the lodge, hoping against odds for a last-minute glimpse of the elusive predator. The atmosphere was charged with a mix of excitement and the inevitable sadness of parting ways. Then, as if on cue, the air was electrified with shouts of “snow leopard, snow leopard!”—a sighting right in front of our lodge, on a peak that felt like it had been part of our daily lives.
The snow leopard was majestically perched on a rock against the skyline, its breath visible in the cold air, a serene yet wild embodiment of nature’s perfection. Time seemed to stand still as we observed, unwilling to disturb this moment of pure wilderness. The leopard’s attention was soon captured by three Ibex grazing nearby, setting the stage for the raw drama of nature’s cycle.
As the predator stealthily positioned itself behind a rock, close yet unseen by the unsuspecting Ibex, we were drawn into the suspense of the hunt. Despite moments when an attack seemed imminent, the snow leopard remained patient, its tactics a lesson in the art of survival. This game of hide and seek continued, captivating us beyond the urge to depart. We decided to dine there, unwilling to tear ourselves away from the unfolding drama.
However, as the day waned, the reality of our journey back to Leh pressed upon us. Reluctantly, we shared our concerns with the group, who, understanding the risks of mountainous travel after dark, agreed it was time to leave. At 5:30 PM, we bid farewell to the wild drama that had held us spellbound, carrying with us the vivid memories of this final encounter.
Arriving in Leh, the relief of safe passage thanks to our skilled drivers was palpable. After checking into our lodge and settling down for dinner, the day’s excitement gave way to a contented fatigue. As we retired for the night, the satisfaction of witnessing the snow leopard on our last day—a fitting finale to an extraordinary adventure—was a sentiment shared by all. Our “last day, last show” was a spectacular send-off, etching the trip into our memories as an unforgettable experience.
Day 11: Bye-Bye Ladakh
Today was the day we had to bid farewell to Ladakh, a land that bestowed upon us experiences beyond words—moments of marveling at the snow leopard and a plethora of other high-altitude fauna in their natural realm. More than just a journey through landscapes, Ladakh offered us the serene, snow-capped mountains as silent teachers, imparting strength and inner peace, inviting us to explore ourselves in this sacred territory.
After breakfast, our goodbyes weren’t just directed towards the majestic abode of the snow leopard but also to an incredible team. The diligent staff at the hotel in Leh and the lodge in Ulley became more than just hosts; they were the architects of our unforgettable stay, ensuring every moment spent here was woven into the tapestry of lifetime memories.
Leaving Ladakh wasn’t easy. Each step away from this land was heavy with gratitude and the silent promise of return. The landscapes, the wildlife, the people, and their warmth had etched a profound mark on our hearts. As we departed, the essence of Ladakh—its purity, resilience, and tranquility—traveled with us, a gentle reminder of the extraordinary journey we had embarked upon. Ladakh, with its raw beauty and spiritual solitude, had given us more than just memories; it had offered us a piece of itself, a sanctuary of peace and adventure that would beckon us back to its vast, unspoiled wilderness.